A few Rajasthani portraits taken during the camel safari: Enjoy!

Behind the scenes:

Four Day Camel Safari in Rajasthan

Three years ago, I arrived in Pushkar for the Camel Fair. Though the fair is a bit of a whirlwind, somehow, I became good friends with a local named Dharmu. He suggested doing a camel safari out into the desert for five days. So, myself and two Germans (who I had become friends with at the hotel) trekked out into the desert of Rajasthan for four nights and five days along with our new Rajasthani friends (Dharmu, of course, and Bablu and Ravi). It was an incredible way to see Rajasthan and I recommend it highly. And, not only was the scenery beautiful and the people friendly, but we were spoiled with chai, biscuits, fresh fruit and vegetables and good food.

So, as I was coming back to Pushkar, I wanted to do another camel safari in order to take photos of the people we would meet as we went through the villages. It proved a bit harder than I thought to photograph with a group of people, but I had a wonderful time, all the same!

Day 1:

I was picked up at the hotel by Dharmu and Sharavan in which we all piled onto Dharmu's motorbike with a box of water, a mini suitcase of photo equipment, and my 'overnight' bag. Through Pushkar, past the camel fair grounds and into the countryside we went! Finally, we stopped under a very old and ancient banyard tree to wait for the others. The countryside was dusty and arid with horses, cows, water buffaloes, goats and shepherds. We were soon joined by Pavan and Dillip, and Julie and Guillaum from France, a very nice couple. The camels Shlomo, Ali Baba and Rambo completed the party. Rambo was only two years old and not considered an adult yet. So, even though he was very cute with curly fur, he was always wanting to eat or lie down!

We had lunch under the tree, with lemon tea, followed by spicy vegetables and chapati. As custom dictates, the guests always eat first and then the cooks. And, Pavan, Dillip and Dharmu would not budge on this when we tried to insist that we all eat together. While, Julie, Guillaum and I discussed the little mysteries of India, a group of children came to watch us chat. We, in turn, watched the children taking turns swinging on the branches of the banyard tree.

Julie and I went for a walk out into the desert and soon we were back on the camels, making way for our camp for the night. However, just before sunset, the wind picked up and we were caught in a sudden downpour! The five of us took cover under the camel cart (which is for luggage, food, water, cooking materials, camel food and those with tired bottoms) until the rain stopped. We emerged from under the tarp just as the sun turned hot pink and disappeared over the horizon.

We made camp, just as it was becoming dark, on top of a sandy hill with a view of the lights from Pushkar off in the distance. After the camels were unsaddled, the boys looked for water and twigs to prepare dinner. Dillip started to prepare the 'atta' (dough) for the batis by combining wheat flour, water, salt and a little oil. Batis are a staple of Rajasthani cuisine. They are made of wheat flour, like chapati, but rolled into balls and cooked over coals. After dinner, we all curled up under blankets and under shooting stars.

 Accompanied by a family

 Sudden downpour!

 Taking cover under the camel cart

Wet camels

After the storm

Supper: Dillip, Dharmu and Pavan making batis over hot coals

Day 2:

The five of us packed up and made our way through desert and past the farms and crops. Dillip pointed to some huts and told me: 'Rich people'. He explained to me they are considered rich because they have a lot of land. We passed wheat fields and crops of cotton, roses, marigolds, and vegetables. And, as Dillip was teaching me a bit of Hindi, I was able to practice the words for the animals that I saw being herded here and there: little cow (choti gai), little water buffalo (choti bhains) and little goat (chota bakara).

At the foot of a hill, where there were some Shiva temples, we stopped for lunch. Dillip went to get water at one of the water pumps near by as Julie, Guillaum and I helped with the preparation of lunch. Then, after a rest, we headed out once more into the countryside. As the sun was setting, a woman in one of the crops ran up to us, offering some of the vegetables from her field. I am not sure what the vegetable was exactly but it tasted fresh and delicious! After dark, our camel train arrived at a farm house to settle in for the night.

 Sandy desert

 Green crops

 Wheat Fields

And, baby water buffaloes (twins!)

Stopping for lunch

 Dharmu kneading the dough for the roti

Dharmu and Pavan making little round, doughnut shaped roti while Julie and I helped.
(I was told off for making mine too chubby!)
Guillaum pealing the garlic for the vegetables.

 Vegetables cooking

Blessed tree next to the Shiva temple

Sunset in the countryside

 Day 3:

After some chai and biscuits for breakfast, Ali Baba and the camel cart took us into the little town to hike up to an old abandoned fort which held some fantastic views over the countryside. After climbing down, we were offered some chai by some of the village people. Lunch at the farmhouse followed and we then made our way back to Pushkar where I said goodbye to Guillaum and Julie.

Dharmu and I would be staying at his auntie's farmhouse that night. There she prepared a delicious spicy gobi (cauliflower), with dhal, rice, curd and chapati.  It was so scrumptious that I still can't stop thinking of it!

View of the Rajasthani countryside from an abandoned fort

 Little town below

 Looks so much like California!

Dillip on the way back to Pushkar

Day 4:

After a MUCH needed bucket shower, Dharmu had Mitoo take me out for the day to his sister's gypsy camp. So, off Mitoo, Shlomo (the camel) and I trekked through the countryside of Pushkar. Again we passed crops and men and women working in the fields. The women were wearing flowered skirts, brightly coloured choli tops in purple, red or pink and neon veils in yellow, lime or bright blue.  The men were wearing white shirts and dhoti with a neon pink or yellow turban. I just love the womens' outfits and always think they look so beautiful.

We met a lady, out for a walk, with an umbrella to protect her from the sun and a group of men at a house who waved for us to stop and say hello. Finally, we made it to the gypsy camp, 5 km from Pushkar. The camp had been settled on top of a little hill, surrounded by a fence made of throny branches and basic huts had been erected inside. The children all ran out to meet me and Mitoo's sister greeted me with some lemon tea and a smile. She asked if I would like some 'chicken chapati' in which she indicated to one of the chickens running around.  I accepted, not quite knowing what a chicken chapati was... a basic chapati, of course, but chicken? As I don't usually eat meat I was a bit surprised to find out that a chicken chapati was chicken cooked in chili, spices and oil and chapati on the side. It was delicious though I have a feeling that the chicken she pointed to ended up in the pot!

After chatting with some of the girls and taking photos of the children (some of which were chewing paan: a combination of betel leaf and tobacco), Mitoo and I made our way back to the farmhouse for another delicious dinner to complete the last day of the the four day camel trek. 

Interested in experiencing this for yourself?

Contact Dharmu at:

Dharma Camel Safari

Near State Bank, Choti Basti

Pushkar 305022 Rajasthan

Mob. 0091-9982396908

Coming soon: some portraits taken during the camel safari!

Mumbai to Pushkar:

Left Mumbai in a frenzy, and after having to pay my taxi driver with dollars as I had run out of rupees, I arrived at the Bandra Train Station with ten minutes to spare. So, off to Rajasthan with 50 rupees ($1 US) in my pocket!

The train from Mumbai to Ajmer was about an 18 hour journey. Again, I had some wonderful travel companions in my compartment: Daniel from Germany and Pete from the UK. Daniel was making some tea in the compartment when I arrived and it was fun to chat with them and trade travel stories all the way north without knowing eachothers' names.

The scenery was beautiful as we passed marshes (which become covered at high tide), rivers (with men fishing with nets) and palm groves. Remnants of the festival could be seen from the marigolds that had washed up along the banks of the river, and as we passed temples, I saw a sadhu meandering along with his walking stick. I felt as if my eyes were wide open again.

The wetlands of Maharashtra

Train tracks out a pink window

At Ahmedabad, Gujarat, we were joined by Rahul who was going to Ajmer for the Sufi festival. Though Hindu, he told me that he has a great interest in Muslim culture and was looking forward to seeing the whirling dervishes, hearing the Sufis sing qawwali and recite poetry, such Rumi.

Traveling in style in 2 AC

Daniel, myself and Rahul

After climbing into our bunks, we were awoken a little before six o'clock to be told that the next station was Ajmer. In the gray light of the early morning, the scenry had changed from the lush and green South to the rocky, dusty desert of Rajasthan. We had arrived!

We disembarked from the train and said goodbye to Rahul. Daniel, Pete and I then all squashed into an auto rickshaw (luggage and all) and made our way to the bus station. 8 rupees (20 cents US) and half an hour later we arrived in Pushkar. The bus ride was beautiful: past Ajmer lake, over the mountain and into 'Holy Holy Pushkar'.

View over Ajmer from bus

Bus ride to Pushkar, Pete taking a video

I had forgotten how much I had loved Pushkar. I had spent almost a month in Pushkar three years ago so it felt like being home again. Not only that but the scenery reminds me a lot of the desert of Arizona, where I live now in the United States, but with India in the foreground. As we passed cows and monkeys along the way, I couldn't stop smiling. 

Daniel had stayed in Pushkar a little while before at the Milkman Guest House. As Pete and I hadn't booked a place a stay, we decided to tag along to see if there were more rooms available. We were all in luck! Rooms, with a shared bath, for 250 rupees a night ($5 US). And, what a charming place: filled with potted plants, a little garden, colourful lanterns and Rajasthani decorations.

That night we all went for dinner and I met up with some old friends. It was wonderful to see them again and it felt as if the three years that had passed were only two weeks. My first night in Pushkar included: dinner with paneer butter masala and butter naan, some traditional Rajasthani music on a roof top terrace, a ride into the countryside by motorbike and drinks with old friends.

The following day, I ran into Daniel and Pete (and Laurin, from the German speaking part in Italy, who we had met the night before) in the Bazaar. After a late lunch in a garden cafe, we trekked up to the Gayatri Temple for some fantastic views over Pushkar.

 Lunch at Little Tibet: Pete, Laurin, Daniel and I

Laurin and Daniel

Sunset from Gayatri Temple

Next Post: Camel Safari into the countryside of Rajasthan.

Breakfast at Milkman.